There is a particular kind of quiet that a small island inn gives you, and 南澳岛 Nán’ào dǎo in 汕头 Shàntóu has it in spades. Nan’ao is a large island off the coast of eastern Guangdong, and staying on it means falling asleep to the sound of the sea and waking to a horizon that is all water and sky. This is not a luxury resort island; it is a working island of fishing villages and light-keepers, which is exactly why it feels so restful.
A seaside guesthouse here is usually a modest, friendly place run by a local family. The rooms are simple and clean, and the best ones face the water so you can watch the fishing boats come and go from your balcony. The pace is slow, the air is salt-tinged, and there is very little to do but be still.
The rooms
Rooms are typically bright and airy, with tiled floors, a comfortable bed, and a balcony that catches the sea breeze. Air conditioning is standard in summer, and a few places have a simple breakfast of congee and pickles served in the morning. Ask for a sea-facing room if you can, as the difference between a water view and a street view here is the difference between magic and ordinary.
Around the island
Nan’ao is connected to the mainland by a long cross-sea bridge, which makes it easy to reach but has not entirely tamed its laid-back character. You can rent a scooter or hire a car to drive the coastal road, stopping at beaches, a lighthouse, and the wind-farm turbines that stand along the ridges. In the evening, the fishing village comes alive with the catch of the day, and you can eat seafood as fresh as it comes.
Practicalities
The guesthouses are mostly concentrated around the main beaches and the port town. Prices are very reasonable compared with the better-known island stays in Guangdong, and the vibe is casual and unhurried. It is easy to combine a stay here with a drive around the island, and many people come for the seafood and the sunset.
Where to stay: 南澳岛 Nán’ào dǎo is off the coast of 汕头 Shàntóu in eastern 广东 Guǎngdōng, reached by a cross-sea bridge. Guesthouses line the main beaches and the port town, and the majority are run by local families with simple, sea-facing rooms. Expect modest prices, a slow rhythm, and seafood that could not be fresher. Book a room with a water view and come for the sunset, not the nightlife. Flowcloud would say that on Nan’ao the island does most of the work, and the best thing you can do is stand on that balcony and let it. Sleep with the windows open and let the sea do the talking.