Down where the Laixi River bends through Rongchang District in far western Chongqing, the old river town of 万灵古镇 Wànlíng Gǔzhèn still keeps its Ming and Qing bones. Built on a shallow bluff above the water, it was once called Luokong and served as a garrison and trading post where boats unloaded grain, salt, and cloth along the Sichuan–Chongqing corridor.
Wanling’s layout is the thing that makes it worth the trip. A set of steep flagstone lanes climbs from the wharf to the old walls, and the garrison wall — low, thick, and partly restored — still traces the town’s defensive edge above the stream. Along the water you’ll find the long covered walkways and stilt-footed teahouses that gave river towns their rhythm: sit with a bowl of tea, watch the current, and the centuries blur. The former name, Luokong, survives on local maps and in the stories older residents tell about the families who moved here to keep the garrison fed.
What to see is mostly the town itself rather than ticketed sights. The lanes are lined with grey-brick shops and courtyard homes, some still lived in, some turned into small workshops and eateries. A hillside temple and a couple of restored guildhall courtyards sit quietly above the lanes, good for a slow look. The river is the real attraction — in warmer months small boats drift the calm reach below the wall, and at dusk the stone catches an orange light that photographers chase.
The town reads best as a half-day wander. Come early to hear the lanes before the day-trippers, or stay toward sunset when the water goes still. Rongchang’s three famous crafts — pottery, folding fans, and grass cloth — are all made nearby, so Wanling pairs naturally with a craft loop through Anfu and the surrounding villages.
Words and Names
万灵古镇 Wànlíng Gǔzhèn is Wanling Ancient Town. 濑溪河 Làixī Hé is the Laixi River. 罗孔 Luókǒng is Luokong, the town’s former name. 茶馆 Cháguǎn is a teahouse. 会馆 Huìguǎn is a guildhall.
What the Locals Know
The town is calmest on weekday mornings and most crowded on holiday weekends; spring and autumn give the best walking weather, while summer evenings on the river are pleasant if humid. There is no train station in the town itself — most visitors reach Rongchang by rail or bus and then take a local ride the short distance to Wanling. Wear good shoes: the lanes are genuine old stone, uneven and slick after rain. Look for the working teahouses along the water rather than the souvenir front rooms, and ask which lanes lead up to the wall for the best river view.
flowcloud would say that Wanling is a real river town you can still walk, not a rebuilt film set. All checked October 2026.
Where to find it: In Wanling Town, on the banks of the Laixi River in the southeastern part of Rongchang District, Chongqing. All checked October 2026.